Index

1. Overview & Route
2. Scram 440 — Fuel Planning
3. Permits & Documents
4. Best Time to Go
5. Phase 1 — Travel: Kolkata → Meghalaya
6. Phase 2 — WFH Base: Meghalaya Research
7. Phase 3 — Travel: Tawang, Kaziranga & Anini
8. Logistics & Tips
9. Packing List

Overview & Route

Bike: Royal Enfield Scram 440 Starting point: Kolkata

States covered: West Bengal · Assam · Meghalaya · Arunachal Pradesh

Key stops: 📍Shillong, Meghalaya · 📍Cherrapunji, Meghalaya · 📍Dawki, Meghalaya · 📍Sela Pass, Arunachal Pradesh (4,170m) · 📍Tawang, Arunachal Pradesh · 📍Kaziranga, Assam · 📍Majuli, Assam · 📍Anini, Arunachal Pradesh

Total distance: ~5,500 km | Total days: ~33

Leave structure:

Route Diagram

Legend: 🟢 West Bengal  ·  🔵 Assam  ·  🟣 Meghalaya  ·  🔴 Arunachal Pradesh  ·  🟠 WFH base (Shillong)  ·  ⬜ Transit stop  ·  🟧 🚴 WFH morning rides  ·  🟦 🚶 WFH evening walks  ·  🟡 ⚡ Optional  ·  ░ ➕ Extension

Scram 440 — Fuel Planning

Royal Enfield Scram 440 specs:

Effective safe range (refuel when ~2.5L reserve remains):

Segment-by-segment fuel plan:

Permits & Documents

Documents to carry (all original + 3 photocopies):

• Aadhaar / Voter ID
• Driving licence
• Vehicle RC book + insurance + PUC
• 6 passport photos (ILP, permits, hotels)
• ILP printout (carry always in AP)

Best Time to Go

October–November is the sweet spot:

• Post-monsoon: roads dry, green landscape, waterfalls still flowing
• Sela Pass: open (Sela Tunnel also available since March 2024)
• Kaziranga: safaris running (opens ~Oct 15)
• Anini road: stable before pre-winter rains
• Meghalaya WFH bases: dry, cool, ideal working conditions

Avoid June–September: monsoon. Meghalaya roads dangerous, Sela Pass closes, Anini road washes out.

November riding note for Tawang/Sela: Pack for sub-zero morning temperatures. Sela Pass can be −5°C to −10°C at dawn in November. Riding gloves, thermal layers, and a windproof jacket over a down jacket are mandatory.

Departure Date Analysis for Snow — 📍Tawang, Arunachal Pradesh & 📍Anini, Arunachal Pradesh

This is a 33-day trip. Within Phase 3, 📍Sela Pass, Arunachal Pradesh + 📍Tawang, Arunachal Pradesh fall on Day 19 and 📍Roing, Arunachal Pradesh → 📍Anini, Arunachal Pradesh via 📍Mayudia Pass, Arunachal Pradesh falls on Day 28. Working backward from the snow windows of each destination gives the optimal Kolkata departure date.

Snow windows by location:

Trip timing matrix — Kolkata departure vs snow at key stops:

What to expect at each location with a November 1–3 departure:

Phase 1 — Travel: Kolkata → Meghalaya

Day 1 — 📍Kolkata, West Bengal → 📍Siliguri, West Bengal

Distance: 570 km | Road: NH12 | Riding: 9–10 hours

• 6:00 AM: Depart Kolkata, NH12 via Dankuni Expressway.
• 8:30 AM: Bardhaman (~180 km) — tea + paratha at a highway dhaba.
• 12:00 PM: Raiganj / Dalkhola area (~370 km) — fill fuel here. Lunch stop. Assam–West Bengal plains stretch.
• 4:30 PM: Enter Siliguri. Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary flanks the final approach.
• 5:30 PM: Check in near Sevoke Road / Hill Cart Road. Hotel Chancellor, Hotel Sinclairs, or budget guest houses.
• Evening: Siliguri’s Hill Cart Road for dinner — momos, Bengali fish curry.

Day 2 — 📍Siliguri, West Bengal → 📍Guwahati, Assam

Distance: 430 km | Road: NH27 | Riding: 7–8 hours

• 6:00 AM: Depart Siliguri. NH27 through the Dooars: tea gardens, forested hills, elephant crossings.
• 8:30 AM: Cooch Behar (~80 km). Optional 30-min detour to the Cooch Behar Palace.
• 11:30 AM: Cross into Assam. Brahmaputra plains open up.
• 1:00 PM: Bongaigaon — fill fuel. Lunch at a local dhaba (Assamese thali: rice, dal, mustard fish).
• 5:30 PM: Arrive Guwahati, south bank of the Brahmaputra.
• Evening: Brahmaputra riverfront (Uzan Bazar ghat). Sunset over the widest stretch of river you’ll see anywhere in India.

Day 3 — 📍Guwahati, Assam — City Exploration

• 7:00 AM: 📍Kamakhya Temple, Assam. One of 51 Shakti Peethas, Nilachal Hill. Go early for shorter queue. Allow 2 hours.
• 10:00 AM: 📍Umananda Island, Assam — ferry from Kachari Ghat (15 min). Shiva temple, golden langur monkeys.
• 12:00 PM: Lunch at Paradise Restaurant (Police Bazaar area) or Anand Bhavan for Assamese food.
• 2:00 PM: Assam State Museum — NE India archaeology and tribal culture. 1.5 hours.
• 4:00 PM: Brahmaputra cruise from Fancy Bazar ghat.
• Dinner: Gam’s Restaurant or street food at Pan Bazaar (lakhi pitha, khar fish curry).

Day 4 — 📍Guwahati, Assam → 📍Shillong, Meghalaya

Distance: 100 km | Road: NH6 | Riding: 3–4 hours

• 8:00 AM: Depart Guwahati on NH6.
• 10:00 AM: 📍Umiam Lake, Meghalaya (Barapani) — 15 km before Shillong. Pine-forested reservoir, stunning viewpoint. 30 min stop.
• 11:00 AM: Arrive Shillong. Check in near Police Bazaar area.
• 2:30 PM: Police Bazaar on foot — Khasi shawls, bamboo crafts, smoked meat. Try jadoh rice with pork at a local stall.
• 5:00 PM: Ward’s Lake. Peaceful 30-min walk, boating available.
• 7:00 PM: Café culture — Dylan’s Café (live music possible), ML05 Café in Laitumkhrah.

Day 5 — 📍Shillong, Meghalaya — Full Day Exploration

• 6:30 AM: 📍Shillong Peak, Meghalaya (1,965m) — highest point in the city. Narrow bike road to the IAF-controlled summit viewpoint. Panoramic views before the morning cloud rolls in.
• 9:00 AM: 📍Elephant Falls, Meghalaya (12 km) — three-tier waterfall, well-maintained steps. Entry ₹20.
• 11:00 AM: 📍Don Bosco Museum, Meghalaya — 7 floors on NE India cultures. Best museum in the region. Allow 2 hours.
• 2:00 PM: Lunch near Police Bazaar. Smoked pork with sticky rice.
• 4:00 PM: 📍Laitlum Canyon, Meghalaya (24 km) — “End of the Hills.” Deep V-shaped valleys, cloud-wrapped ridges, small cliff villages. Sunset here is extraordinary.

Offbeat alternative afternoon — choose one:

Option A — 📍Mawphlang Sacred Forest, Meghalaya (25 km from Shillong) — a 400-year-old Khasi sacred grove (Law Lyngdoh) where tribal custom forbids removing anything: not a leaf, not a stone, not a berry. The forest has been protected this way for centuries — by taboo, not by government. A custodian clan called the nongkynmaw guides you through. Biodiversity inside the grove vs. outside its boundary is visibly, startlingly different. Entry with guide ₹200–300. Allow 2 hours minimum.

Option B — 📍Mawryngkhang Bamboo Trek, Meghalaya (Wahkhen village, 45 km from Shillong via Pynursla hairpin road — perfect for the Scram 440). Bamboo bridges built by the local Khasi community along cliff faces above the 📍Wahrew River, Meghalaya gorge. This is not a viewpoint walk — it is a physically demanding cliff traverse with vertiginous drops on both sides, narrow bamboo plank paths, and steep ladders. 3.5 km round trip, 3–4 hrs. Trail open 9AM–5PM. Logistics: leave Shillong at 12:30 PM, reach Wahkhen by 2 PM, complete trek by 5 PM, back in Shillong by 6:30 PM. Entry ₹100. Distance from Dawki: 35 km — can also be done en route to Dawki on Day 9 if you skip Mawlynnong.

If doing either option, save Laitlum Canyon for the WFH Day 14 morning ride instead (24 km, fits the pre-10AM window perfectly).

Day 6 — 📍Shillong, Meghalaya → 📍Cherrapunji/Sohra, Meghalaya

Distance: 55 km | Road: via Mawkdok | Riding: 2 hours

• 8:00 AM: Depart Shillong on winding hill road.
• 9:00 AM: 📍Mawkdok Dympep Valley, Meghalaya — gorge disappears below you, clouds below the cliff edge. 20 min stop.
• 10:00 AM: Arrive Sohra (Cherrapunji). Check in at Cherrapunjee Holiday Resort or Polo Orchid Resort (both overlook the gorge). Budget: NG Eco Homestay.
• 12:00 PM: 📍Nohkalikai Falls, Meghalaya (340m drop, tallest plunge waterfall in India). Walk to the cliff edge.
• 1:30 PM: 📍Seven Sisters Falls, Meghalaya — 7 streams down the same limestone cliff. Entry ₹20.
• 3:00 PM: 📍Eco Park, Meghalaya — cliff-edge park overlooking Bangladesh plains and waterfalls.
• 3:45 PM: 📍Thangkharang Park & Kynrem Falls, Meghalaya (12 km from Sohra on the road toward Shella) — another cliff-edge park overlooking Bangladesh, with a direct view of Kynrem Falls (305m, three-tier cascade). Far fewer visitors than Eco Park or Nohkalikai, and the falls are wider and more dramatic in wet season. Entry ₹20. 1 hr total.
• 5:00 PM: 📍Mawsmai Cave, Meghalaya — 150m lit limestone cave. Entry ₹20.
• Dinner: Orange Roots or Jiva Grill in Sohra.

Day 7 — 📍Cherrapunji, Meghalaya — Waterfalls & Caves

• 7:00 AM: 📍Wei Sawdong Falls, Meghalaya — 3-tier hidden waterfall, 30-min forest trek. Aquamarine pools. Swim if warm enough. Start early.
• 10:00 AM: Breakfast, then 📍Arwah Cave, Meghalaya — fossil-embedded limestone passages, 65–70 million year old marine fossils. Entry ₹30.
• 1:00 PM: Lunch at guesthouse.
• 2:30 PM: 📍Garden of Caves, Meghalaya — caves + waterfalls trail in the gorge. Entry ₹20.
• 4:00 PM: 📍Dainthlen Falls, Meghalaya — rocky gorge waterfall with a Khasi serpent legend. Short walk from road.
• Evening: Plan tomorrow’s root bridge trek. Download offline trail map for Tyrna–Nongriat. Lay out gear: carry 2L water, snacks, phone fully charged, light daypack.

Phase 2 — WFH Base: Meghalaya Research

WFH Location Analysis

Three potential bases evaluated for WFH suitability:

Option A — Shillong (Best connectivity)

Altitude: 1,495–1,965m | Climate type: Subtropical highland (Cwb)

Weather during WFH window (Oct–Nov):

Connectivity:

WiFi at stays: Hotel Polo Towers, Centre Point, and most mid-range hotels have WiFi. Quality varies — confirm with hotel and ask for a room on an upper floor near the router.

WFH verdict: Shillong is a city with proper infrastructure. Multiple co-working cafés exist (Café Shillong Heritage, Dylan’s, various others with tables). Best choice if your role involves daily video calls. Power cuts are rare and brief.

Option B — Cherrapunji/Sohra (Good connectivity, scenic)

Altitude: 1,430m | Climate type: Subtropical highland (Cwb)

Weather during WFH window (Oct–Nov):

Important: Cherrapunji receives extremely high monsoon rainfall (average 11,777 mm/year). But October and November are the dry season — Oct rainfall drops to 461mm (about 15% of the annual total), and November falls to 49mm. Misty mornings are common even in dry season as cloud formations build off the escarpment.

Connectivity:

WiFi at stays: Cherrapunjee Holiday Resort and Polo Orchid Resort have WiFi. Speeds quoted as 10–25 Mbps in guest reviews. Connection quality drops during peak tourist season.

Power: Stable in Sohra town. Occasional load-shedding (30–60 min), manageable with a power bank. All resorts have generator backup.

WFH verdict: Good enough for a WFH week if your role allows async work and occasional video calls. Avoid scheduling video calls in the morning — mist reduces morale and light quality, though connectivity is unaffected. Afternoons are clearest.

Option C — Dawki / Shnongpdeng (Scenic but connectivity limited)

Altitude: ~200m (much lower — Umngot river valley) | Climate type: Tropical/subtropical lowland

Weather during WFH window (Oct–Nov):

Dawki is significantly warmer than Shillong/Cherrapunji because it’s at only ~200m altitude vs 1,400–1,500m. In November, expect comfortable T-shirt temperatures during the day — beautiful riding and outdoor working conditions.

Connectivity:

Hotspot speed (Jio in Dawki town): Typically 5–15 Mbps download, 2–8 Mbps upload. Adequate for email, Slack/Teams text, and occasional calls but video calls may stutter.

WiFi at stays: Shnongpdeng campsites do not offer reliable WiFi. Some homestays in Dawki town have basic WiFi (~5 Mbps). Confirm before booking.

Power: Riverside camps run on generator or solar. Power available during generator hours (usually 6–10 PM). Charging during work hours requires carrying fully charged power banks (20,000 mAh essential).

WFH verdict: Possible but requires planning around connectivity gaps. Best strategy: stay in a Dawki town homestay (not riverside camp) for weekdays, use Shnongpdeng only on weekends when offline.

Confirmed WFH Plan — Days 10–14 (Mon–Fri), 📍Shillong, Meghalaya

Day 8 — 📍Double Decker Root Bridge, Meghalaya Trek (📍Cherrapunji, Meghalaya, Meghalaya)

Full day off — most physically demanding day

• 6:00 AM: Drive 20 km to 📍Tyrna village, Meghalaya. Park bike safely.
• 6:30 AM: Descend 3,500 stone steps through jungle. Dense rainforest, suspension bridges over streams.
• 9:00 AM: 📍Single Root Bridge, Meghalaya en route. Rubber fig roots trained across a stream, load-bearing after generations of growth.
• 10:45 AM: 📍Double Decker Living Root Bridge, Meghalaya, Nongriat village. Two bridges stacked, the upper one 150+ years old. Walk across. Entry ₹50.
• 12:00 PM: Natural pools below Nongriat. Turquoise freshwater. Swim, rest.
• 2:00 PM: Climb back. 3,500 steps upward — serious effort. Break every 500 steps.
• 4:00 PM: Reach Tyrna. Drink something sweet immediately.
• Evening: Return to Cherrapunji. Early sleep.

Day 9 (Sun) — 📍Cherrapunji, Meghalaya → 📍Mawlynnong, Meghalaya → 📍Dawki, Meghalaya (overnight — WFH base prep)

Distance: 85 km | Road: Cherrapunji → Pynursla → Mawlynnong → Dawki | Riding: 4–5 hours | Sunday — no work, no time restriction

• 8:00 AM: Depart Cherrapunji toward Pynursla.
• 10:30 AM: 📍Mawlynnong Village, Meghalaya — Asia’s cleanest village. Walk bamboo-dustbin streets, visit 📍Riwai Living Root Bridge, Meghalaya (5-min walk), climb bamboo skywalk. Entry ₹20.
• 1:00 PM: Lunch in Mawlynnong.
• 2:00 PM: Ride to Dawki. Steep winding descent — the Umngot river appears through the trees below.
• 3:00 PM: Arrive 📍Dawki, Meghalaya. Check in at Dawki town homestay (not riverside camp — you need reliable signal for tomorrow morning).
• 4:30 PM: Boat on the 📍Umngot River, Meghalaya — transparent water, riverbed visible 5m down. Boats float on air.
• Evening: Riverside. Campfire. Bangladesh hills across the water.
• Before sleep: Confirm Monday morning plan. Pre-book a Shillong hotel for the WFH week (check that it has desk + WiFi). Set an alarm for 6:00 AM.

Phase 2 — WFH: Monday–Friday from 📍Shillong, Meghalaya

WFH Base: Shillong — best connectivity in Meghalaya (Jio 4G/5G, 20–80 Mbps). Hotel WiFi as primary. No travel between 10 AM and 6 PM on any working day. All riding is before 10 AM or after 6 PM (but after-work rides are limited by dark — sunset ~5:00–5:30 PM in November).

Day 10 (Mon) — 📍Dawki, Meghalaya → 📍Shillong, Meghalaya + WFH Day 1

Pre-work ride: Dawki → Shillong (75 km, ~2 hrs) — must complete before 10 AM

• 6:00 AM: Depart Dawki. NH206 north via Amlarem. Road is quiet at dawn — cool, misty, and fast.
• 8:00–8:30 AM: Arrive Shillong. Check in to the pre-booked hotel.
• 8:30 AM: Hot shower, breakfast at the hotel.
• 9:00 AM: Set up workspace. Test hotel WiFi (run speedtest.net). If below 10 Mbps upload, switch to Jio 4G hotspot. Keep Airtel as tertiary.
• 9:30 AM: Final prep — stand-ups, emails, calendar check.
• 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM: 🖥️ WORK. No riding.
• 6:15 PM: Short walk to 📍Ward's Lake, Meghalaya (10 min on foot from Police Bazaar). The lake closes at 5:30 PM for entry but the road around it stays open — a calm perimeter walk through pine trees and colonial-era gardens.
• 7:00 PM: 📍Police Bazaar, Shillong street food walk — pick up smoked pork, jadoh (Khasi sticky rice with pork), or black sesame rice cakes from the stalls that set up after 6 PM. The bazaar is at its most atmospheric in the evening.
• 8:00 PM: Dinner at 📍Trattoria Restaurant, Shillong (continental and Indian, popular with locals and long-timers) or any of the Jail Road dhabas for authentic Khasi pork-rice thali.

Day 11 (Tue) — WFH Day 2, 📍Shillong, Meghalaya

• 6:30 AM: Quick ride to 📍Umiam Lake, Meghalaya (15 km, 25 min). 30 minutes at the lakeside — pine-scented air, still water, no tourists yet. Back by 8:00 AM.
• 8:00 AM: Breakfast. Workspace ready.
• 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM: 🖥️ WORK. No riding.
• 6:15 PM: 📍Police Bazaar, Shillong evening walk — the main commercial hub of Shillong, most alive between 6 PM and 9 PM. Pick up Khasi shawls, bamboo crafts, smoked meat, and pineapple from the roadside vendors. The 📍Khyndailad Market, Shillong section has the densest street food.
• 7:30 PM: 📍Café Shillong Heritage, Meghalaya for coffee and cake — a Shillong institution on GS Road, British-era building, warm and unhurried. Closes around 9 PM.
• 8:30 PM: Dinner at 📍Delhi Darbar Restaurant, Shillong (reliable North Indian) or explore the Laitumkhrah area (10 min ride) for local Khasi and Chinese food.

Day 12 (Wed) — WFH Day 3, 📍Shillong, Meghalaya

• 6:30 AM: Ride to 📍Shillong Peak, Meghalaya (10 km, 20 min). 30 min at the IAF viewpoint — panoramic view of the whole city and hills. Back by 8:00 AM.
• 8:00 AM: Breakfast. Workspace ready.
• 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM: 🖥️ WORK. No riding.
• 6:15 PM: 📍Laitumkhrah, Shillong area — the neighbourhood with Shillong’s best café and music scene, 10–15 min walk from the main hotels. Cool, tree-lined, full of small independent shops.
• 6:30 PM: 📍Dylan's Cafe, Shillong — named after Bob Dylan, decorated accordingly. Known for live acoustic performances (check on arrival if there’s a set tonight — typically on evenings). Good food, WiFi works well if you have a late call to finish. Open until ~10 PM.
• Alternatively: 📍ML05 Cafe, Shillong (same Laitumkhrah neighbourhood) — newer, modern, popular with young professionals and students from the colleges nearby. Quieter than Dylan’s, better for work overflow.
• 8:30 PM: Dinner in Laitumkhrah — 📍Kay's Kitchen, Shillong for Khasi and local food, or any of the small street restaurants along the main road.

Day 13 (Thu) — WFH Day 4, 📍Shillong, Meghalaya

• 6:00 AM: Ride to 📍Mawphlang Sacred Forest, Meghalaya (25 km, ~40 min). This is the best use of a WFH morning — a 400-year-old tribal sacred grove maintained by Khasi custom, not government. The nongkynmaw custodian guides you in; nothing can be removed from inside. Take a local guide from the village (arrange the evening before, ~₹200). Forest walk: 1.5–2 hrs. Back in Shillong by 9:15 AM. (Elephant Falls was already covered on Day 5 — no need to repeat.)
• 9:15 AM: Breakfast. Workspace ready.
• 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM: 🖥️ WORK. No riding.
• 6:15 PM: 📍Iewduh Bazar, Shillong (also written Lewduh) — Shillong’s largest traditional market, a 5-min walk from Police Bazaar. Operated by the Khasi tribe, matrilineal — most stalls run by women. Vegetables, dried fish, smoked meats, traditional dress, brooms made from forest grasses, local spirits. The evening crowd gives it a completely different character from the daytime tourist market. Open until about 7:30–8 PM.
• 7:30 PM: Walk past 📍Don Bosco Square, Shillong — the area around the museum has a pleasant open square, benches, and street vendors in the evening.
• 8:00 PM: Dinner at 📍Shillong Club, Meghalaya area or back near the hotel. Try 📍Cloud 9 Restaurant, Shillong if you want a rooftop dinner — one of the higher-altitude dining spots in the city with a view.

Day 14 (Fri) — WFH Day 5, 📍Shillong, Meghalaya

• 6:30 AM: 📍Laitlum Canyon, Meghalaya (24 km, 40 min ride). Go at sunrise — the canyon in early light with clouds still in the valley below is exceptional. Back by 8:45 AM.
• 8:45 AM: Breakfast. Workspace ready.
• 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM: 🖥️ WORK. No riding.
• 6:15 PM: 📍Bara Bazar, Shillong area walk (5 min from Police Bazaar) — wholesale market, less touristy, interesting texture of the city at evening with workers packing up, local food vendors opening.
• 7:00 PM: 📍Cloud 9 Restaurant, Shillong — rooftop restaurant near Police Bazaar. Good view of the city at night, live music on weekends. For the last work-night in Shillong, worth a proper dinner.
• Alternatively: 📍Cafe Shillong Heritage, Meghalaya (GS Road) if you prefer a quieter sit-down. Heritage building, desserts, quiet corner tables.
• 9:00 PM: Pack for tomorrow’s early departure. Fuel check on the Scram 440. Confirm hotel in Guwahati for Sunday night.

Day 15 (Sat) — 📍Shillong, Meghalaya → 📍Krang Suri Falls, Meghalaya → 📍Dawki, Meghalaya (overnight)

Distance: ~170 km | Road: Shillong → Amlarem → Krang Suri → Dawki | Riding: 5–6 hours | Saturday — no work, full day riding

• 7:00 AM: Depart Shillong. NH6 south toward Amlarem.
• 9:30 AM: 📍Krang Suri Falls, Meghalaya (~95 km). The most visually striking waterfall in Meghalaya — turquoise pool, dense jungle, no development. Swim. Weekday-quality emptiness on a Saturday morning if you arrive early. Entry ₹50.
• 12:30 PM: Depart Krang Suri. Continue south to Dawki (~45 km, 1 hr).
• 1:30 PM: 📍Phe Phe Falls, Meghalaya optional short detour near Amlarem/Syndai if not done previously — hidden 3-tier cascade, 20-min jungle walk. Free.
• 3:00 PM: Arrive 📍Dawki, Meghalaya. Check in at riverside camp or Dawki town homestay.
• 4:00 PM: 📍Umngot River, Meghalaya sunset boat ride — the transparent water in the late afternoon light is different from earlier in the day. Coracle ₹800–1,500.
• Evening: Cliff jumping at 📍Shnongpdeng, Meghalaya if energy permits (guided, ₹300). Or sit by the river with a fire.
• Overnight: Dawki town homestay (better signal than riverside camps).

Phase 3 — Travel: Tawang, Kaziranga & Anini

Day 16 (Sun) — 📍Dawki, Meghalaya → 📍Guwahati, Assam

Distance: 180 km | Road: Dawki → Amlarem → Jowai → Guwahati | Riding: 5–6 hours | Sunday — no work

• 7:00 AM: Depart Dawki. Route via Amlarem — forested, light traffic on Sunday morning.
• 9:00 AM: 📍Nartiang Monoliths, Meghalaya (22 km before Jowai on the Dawki–Jowai road) — the largest concentration of prehistoric menhirs (standing stones) in Asia. Over 100 menhirs and dolmens erected by the Jaintia kings, some over 3m tall, standing in an open field beside a 16th-century Durga temple. No crowds, no ticket counter, no tour group. The Jaintia Hills carry a completely different tribal culture from the Khasi Hills. Entry free. Allow 30 min.
• 11:00 AM: 📍Jowai, Meghalaya (West Jaintia Hills HQ) — fuel stop. 30-min market explore.
• 11:45 AM: 📍Thadlaskein Lake, Meghalaya (5 km from Jowai) — a sacred Jaintia lake with a solitary tall megalith rising from the water — placed there by a Jaintia king. Quiet, local, virtually no tourists. 15 min stop.
• 2:30 PM: Arrive Guwahati. Check in.
• Afternoon: Cash withdrawal (ATMs reliable here — last good ATM before Tawang). Stock up on supplies. Confirm ILP status.

Day 17 (Mon) — 📍Guwahati, Assam → 📍Tezpur, Assam

Distance: 180 km | Road: NH15/NH13 | Riding: 3.5–4 hours

• 8:00 AM: Depart Guwahati on NH15. Flat Assam plains, fast road.
• 12:00 PM: Arrive Tezpur — gateway to Arunachal Pradesh, on the Brahmaputra’s south bank.
• 1:00 PM: Lunch in town.
• 2:30 PM: 📍Agnigarh Hill, Assam — hilltop with Brahmaputra valley views and Mahabharata legend (Usha and Aniruddha).
• 3:30 PM: 📍Da Parbatia ruins, Assam — 5th-century Gupta-period temple doorway. One of the oldest sculptural pieces in Assam.
• 5:30 PM: 📍Nameri National Park, Assam vicinity (15 km away). Buffer zone birdwatching at dusk.
• Evening: Check in at Hotel Luit or Hotel Sripuria.

Day 18 (Tue) — 📍Tezpur, Assam → 📍Dirang, Arunachal Pradesh

Distance: ~200 km | Road: NH13 | Riding: 6–7 hours | Arunachal entry today

• 6:30 AM: Early start from Tezpur.
• 8:30 AM: 📍Bhalukpong, Arunachal Pradesh — ILP check. Fill fuel here. Kameng River flows alongside.
• 10:00 AM – 12:00 PM: Climb through Arunachal foothills. Road cut into hillside, increasingly dramatic views.
• 12:00 PM: 📍Bomdila, Arunachal Pradesh (2,415m) — fill fuel. Three monasteries here (visit Upper or Middle Gontse Gang, 30 min). Apple orchards in season.
• 2:00 PM: Lunch in Bomdila market. Momos, thukpa, pork.
• 3:00 PM: 📍Thembang Fortified Village, Arunachal Pradesh — ~25 km south of Bomdila via a rough side road (excellent for the Scram 440). UNESCO Asia-Pacific Heritage Award-winning site: a complete Monpa tribe fortified village enclosed within intact medieval stone defensive walls and watchtowers, still inhabited. The concept — an entire living village inside a stone perimeter built for military defence — is unique in Arunachal Pradesh. Almost no tourists. Walk the perimeter wall, look into the traditional homes. Entry free. Allow 45 min including the diversion road. Return to NH13 and continue to Dirang.
• 5:00 PM: Continue to 📍Dirang, Arunachal Pradesh (1,450m). Valley descent into the Dirang Chu river valley.
• 5:00 PM: Arrive Dirang. Check in.
• 5:30 PM: 📍Dirang Hot Spring, Arunachal Pradesh (2 km from town) — sulphurous natural hot water spring.
• Evening: Walk to 📍Dirang Dzong, Arunachal Pradesh — old stone fort village. Traditional Monpa stone-and-timber construction.

Day 19 (Wed) — 📍Dirang, Arunachal Pradesh → 📍Sela Pass, Arunachal Pradesh → 📍Tawang, Arunachal Pradesh

Distance: ~140 km | Road: NH13 | Riding: 5–6 hours | Maximum altitude day

• 7:00 AM: Depart Dirang before dawn. Start early — morning light at Sela is worth the effort.
• 7:30 AM: 📍Sangti Valley, Arunachal Pradesh (12 km from Dirang) — open flat valley, black-necked cranes in winter (Oct–Mar). Brief stop.
• 9:00 AM: Road begins aggressive climb toward Sela.
• 10:30 AM: 📍Sela Pass, Arunachal Pradesh (4,170m / 13,680 ft). Summit marked by prayer flags and Sela Lake.
  • 📍Sela Lake, Arunachal Pradesh: Large alpine lake beside the road, often partially iced from late October. Turquoise-brown water, surrounded by lunar-brown tundra. No vegetation above the treeline.
  • Temperature at the pass: −5°C to +5°C in October/November. Wind chill makes it feel colder. Wear all your layers.
  • The pass was named after Sela — a Monpa girl who helped Indian soldier Jaswant Singh hold off the Chinese Army for 72 hours alone in 1962.
  • Sela Tunnel (inaugurated March 2024): passes 400m below the summit at 3,000m altitude. Take the old road going up to Tawang (for the view), use the tunnel on return.
• 11:30 AM: Begin descent from Sela into rhododendron forest then temperate broadleaf.
• 12:30 PM: 📍Jaswant Garh War Memorial, Arunachal Pradesh — memorial to Jaswant Singh Rawat who held his position here in 1962. The army maintains his room as if he is still on duty.
• 1:00 PM: 📍Jang town, Arunachal Pradesh — lunch. Simple momo + rice restaurants.
• 1:30 PM: 📍Nuranang Falls, Arunachal Pradesh (Jang Falls) — 2 km east of Jang. Named after Noora, the second Monpa girl from the 1962 story. Wide curtain waterfall over a rocky gorge.
• 3:00 PM: Arrive Tawang (2,669m). Check in at Hotel Tawang Heights or Hotel Sangay.
• Evening: Tawang market — Tibetan crafts, thangka paintings, prayer wheels, local honey, yak wool.
• Dinner: Momo, thukpa. Any local kitchen.

Bum La permit — apply today. Go to Tawang DC office by 4–5 PM this evening. Bring: original ILP, original Aadhaar/Voter ID, vehicle registration number and driver’s name. Final clearance comes from the Brigadier’s office at Tawang War Memorial. Permit ready next morning ~9 AM. Note: Army convoy movement is weather-dependent — even with a valid permit, the Army can cancel on the day. Build a backup plan into Day 19.

Day 20 (Thu) — 📍Tawang, Arunachal Pradesh — Monastery & Memorials

• 7:00 AM: 📍Tawang Monastery, Arunachal Pradesh (Galden Namgey Lhatse) — largest in India, 2nd largest in the world after Potala (Lhasa). Founded 1681. Houses 500 monks. 8m gold-painted Buddha in the main hall. 400-year-old manuscripts in the library. Allow 2–3 hours. Go early for empty courtyards.
• 10:00 AM: 📍Urgelling Monastery, Arunachal Pradesh — birthplace of the 6th Dalai Lama. Smaller, quieter, more intimate.
• 11:30 AM: 📍Gyangong Ani Gompa, Arunachal Pradesh (5 km from Tawang town) — a Buddhist nunnery perched on a cliff ledge, housing 60–70 nuns. The building clings to the rock face in a way that recalls Bhutan’s Paro Taktsang. Much quieter and more intimate than the main monastery. Virtually absent from any travel guide or blog. Entry free. 20-minute ride from town.
• 12:00 PM: 📍Tawang War Memorial, Arunachal Pradesh — 2,420 Indian soldiers of the 1962 war. Inscribed names on the walls. Sound and light show at dusk.
• 2:00 PM: Lunch in Tawang market.
• 3:30 PM: 📍PT Tso Lake, Arunachal Pradesh (Pankang Teng Tso) — 17 km from Tawang, ~4,000m. Alpine lake, army road. Carry ILP.
• On the way to PT Tso: 📍Khedbari Lake, Arunachal Pradesh — a smaller, quieter alpine lake about 12 km from Tawang on the same army road, en route to PT Tso. Almost no visitors; most people drive past without realising it’s there. If PT Tso is crowded (rare but possible in October), Khedbari offers the same silence and Himalayan backdrop. No facilities. ILP covers it.
• Evening: Sound & Light show at the War Memorial at dusk.

Day 21 (Fri) — 📍Tawang, Arunachal Pradesh — 📍Madhuri Lake, Arunachal Pradesh & 📍Bum La Pass, Arunachal Pradesh

Two options depending on permit status:

If Bum La permit received:

• 6:00 AM: Depart with registered guide to 📍Bum La Pass, Arunachal Pradesh (4,793m, India-China border). 40 km rough military road. Chinese bunkers visible 200m across the LAC. Indian Army personnel at the gate.
• 1:00 PM: Return to Tawang for lunch.
• 3:00 PM: Madhuri Lake (Sangetsar Tso) — 35 km from Tawang. Alpine lake at 4,000m, ringed by snow peaks, yaks grazing.

If no Bum La permit:

• 8:00 AM: Ride to 📍Madhuri Lake, Arunachal Pradesh (Sangetsar Tso). Two hours riding each way on mountain roads.
• Midday: At the lake. Silent, cold, high. One of the most beautiful places on this entire journey.
• Afternoon: 📍Zemithang valley, Arunachal Pradesh (80 km from Tawang, remote Monpa villages near Bhutan border).

📍Gongkar La, Arunachal Pradesh — any Tawang day, no special permit needed:

Gongkar La (~4,500m) requires only the standard ILP — no Bum La special permit, no registered guide, no army convoy. It is a completely independent option. The road is rough military track from Tawang town, ideal for the Scram 440. The pass gives sweeping views of the surrounding Himalayan ridgelines and sees almost no visitors. It fits as an afternoon extension on either the Bum La day (if you return early enough) or the Madhuri Lake day — or as a standalone morning ride on Day 20 or Day 22 if the schedule allows. Ask at your hotel or locally the evening before about current road conditions; army movement can temporarily close sections.

Day 22 (Sat) — 📍Tawang, Arunachal Pradesh → 📍Bomdila, Arunachal Pradesh — Return

Distance: 165 km | Via Sela Tunnel on return | Riding: 5–6 hours

• 7:00 AM: Depart Tawang. Final look at the monastery valley in morning light.
• 9:30 AM: Sela Tunnel approach. Take the tunnel on return (1,555m + 980m twin-tube system at 3,000m altitude, opened March 2024).
• 12:30 PM: Dirang. Tea stop.
• 2:30 PM: Bomdila. Fill fuel. Check in.
• Evening: Bomdila Monastery (Lower Gontse Gang) — best of the three monasteries, valley views of the Kameng foothills.

Day 23 (Sun) — 📍Bomdila, Arunachal Pradesh → 📍Kaziranga, Assam

Distance: ~360 km total | Riding: 7–8 hours

• 6:00 AM: Depart Bomdila. Descend through Bhalukpong to Assam plains.
• 9:00 AM: Exit Arunachal at Bhalukpong.
• 12:00 PM: Tezpur — fuel stop + lunch.
• 3:00 PM: Arrive Kaziranga (Kohora gate area). Check in at Iora Resort, Infinity Kaziranga, or similar.
• Afternoon: Book morning jeep safari at the front desk. Central Range is best for rhinos.
• Evening: Walk the road near the park boundary at dusk. Elephants sometimes cross.

Day 24 (Mon) — 📍Kaziranga National Park, Assam

Two safaris — UNESCO World Heritage Site

Weather (October–November, Assam plains):

• October: 28–32°C day, 18–22°C night, humidity moderate

• November: 23–27°C day, 12–16°C night, humidity drops — clearest skies

• 5:30 AM: Morning jeep safari — Central Range (Kohora). Open grasslands, jhils, tall elephant grass. One-horned rhinos (2,400+ in the park), wild water buffalo, swamp deer, Indian elephants, fishing cats. Best chance of tiger at dawn.

• 9:00 AM: Return. Breakfast.

• 10:30 AM: Eastern Range (Agaratoli) — fewer tourists, more elephants, open grassland.

• 3:30 PM: Western Range (Bagori) — large buffalo herds, sunset golden light over the grasslands.

• Evening: Rest. This park has the highest density of rhinos in the world in 430 km². Let that settle.

Note: Kaziranga is closed during monsoon (roughly June–October 15). Confirm the exact opening date before planning. Best season: October 15–April.

Day 25 (Tue) — 📍Kaziranga, Assam → 📍Majuli Island, Assam

Distance: ~95 km to Nimatighat + ferry | Riding: 2 hours + ferry

• 8:00 AM: Ride east on NH27 to Jorhat (100 km).
• 10:00 AM: Continue to 📍Nimatighat, Assam (17 km from Jorhat).
• 12:00 PM: Board ferry to 📍Majuli, Assam — world’s largest river island. Bike loaded onto flat-bottomed ferry. 1–1.5 hr crossing. The Brahmaputra at this point is overwhelming in scale.
• 1:30 PM: Land on Majuli. Check in at a guesthouse in Garamur or Kamalabari.
• 2:30 PM: 📍Kamalabari Satra, Assam — Vaishnavite monastery, Sattriya dance practice, ancient masked dance props.
• 5:00 PM: Rent a cycle and ride through villages. Flat, green, water everywhere. Egrets in rice fields.
• Evening: Attend evening prayer at any satra — drumming, call-and-response singing.

Day 26 (Wed) — 📍Majuli, Assam → 📍Jorhat, Assam → 📍Dibrugarh, Assam

Distance (Jorhat → Dibrugarh): 55 km | Riding: 1.5 hours

• 7:00 AM: Sunrise over the Brahmaputra from any riverbank.
• 9:00 AM: 📍Auniati Satra, Assam — largest satra on Majuli, museum of Ahom-era artefacts, royal jewellery, manuscripts.
• 11:00 AM: Head to Nimatighat. Noon ferry back.
• 1:00 PM: Off ferry. Do not go straight to Dibrugarh — Sivasagar is on the route.

• 2:30 PM: Arrive 📍Sivasagar, Assam. The four key sites are within 5 km of each other:
  • 📍Rang Ghar, Sivasagar, Assam — 18th-century royal amphitheatre, India’s oldest surviving sports pavilion. Built by Ahom king Pramatta Singha for polo and buffalo fights. The two-storey pavilion with its serpent-capped roof rises above a vast open ground. Extraordinary architecture, no crowds.
  • 📍Talatal Ghar, Sivasagar, Assam — the largest Ahom monument. A 7-storey structure with 3 storeys underground and two secret escape tunnels (one reaching the Brahmaputra bank km away). Built as a military base and royal retreat. Partially excavated; you can enter the underground chambers.
  • 📍Shiva Dol, Sivasagar, Assam — tallest Shiva temple dome in India (32m). Built in 1734 by Ahom queen Phuleswari. Standing beside a large temple tank (Sivasagar = “Siva’s ocean”). Three temples in one compound: Shiva Dol, Vishnu Dol, Devi Dol.
  • 📍Kareng Ghar, Sivasagar, Assam — 4-storey fortified royal palace at Gargaon. Part of the same Ahom court complex.
• 5:30 PM: Depart Sivasagar.
• 7:00 PM: Arrive Dibrugarh. Check in at Hotel Gateway or Hotel Aroma.
• Afternoon/Evening prep:
  • Withdraw cash — last reliable ATM.
  • Full fuel tank.
  • 5L jerry can filled.
  • Download offline maps: entire Arunachal Pradesh, especially Roing–Anini.
  • Emergency food supplies for 2 days: biscuits, dry fruits, instant noodles, energy bars.
  • Confirm Anini Circuit House booking (contact Dibang Valley DC office in advance).

Day 27 (Thu) — 📍Dibrugarh, Assam → 📍Roing, Arunachal Pradesh

Distance: ~165 km | Road: NH315 + Bogibeel Bridge | Riding: 4–5 hours

• 7:00 AM: Depart Dibrugarh. Cross 📍Bogibeel Bridge, Assam over the Brahmaputra (the bridge is an engineering marvel — 4.94 km, opened 2018, strategic military route).
• 12:00 PM: Arrive Roing (Lower Dibang Valley district HQ). Fill fuel completely — both tank and jerry can.
• 1:00 PM: Lunch in Roing market.
• 2:00 PM: 📍Mehao Lake, Arunachal Pradesh (25 km from Roing) — beautiful forest lake in Mehao Wildlife Sanctuary. Gayal, tigers, rare birds.
• 5:00 PM: Return to Roing. Check in at Government Circuit House or local guesthouse.
• Evening: Talk to locals / Circuit House staff about current road conditions on the Roing–Anini road (landslides, washed sections, military convoy schedules). This information is current and critical.
• Withdraw cash. No ATM in Anini.

Day 28 (Fri) — 📍Roing, Arunachal Pradesh → 📍Anini, Arunachal Pradesh

Distance: 228 km | Road: Extremely rough mountain track | Riding: 8–14 hours

Weather (Anini, Oct–Nov):

• 5:30 AM: Depart Roing before dawn. Goal: reach Anini before dark.
• 7:00 AM: 📍Mayudia Pass, Arunachal Pradesh (~30 km from Roing, ~2,655m) — the Roing–Anini road climbs through dense old-growth oak, rhododendron, and magnolia forest to this forested pass. In October–November the deciduous canopy turns color — unusual in NE India. Small CRPF post at the top. Brief photo stop; the descent from Mayudia into the deep Dibang Valley is dramatic and confirms you are now in genuine frontier territory.
• 8:00 AM: 📍Hunli, Arunachal Pradesh (~100 km) — last small settlement. Ask about road conditions ahead. Basic food if available. Fill fuel here if a pump exists (don’t count on it — ask in Roing the night before).
• Beyond Hunli: No mobile network. Tell someone at Roing your plan and ETA.
• Road: Follows the Dibang River — one of India’s most powerful rivers. Raw Himalayan terrain, bamboo forests, river crossings on variable bridge structures.
• 2:00–5:00 PM: Arrive Anini (1,968m) — district HQ of Dibang Valley. Population ~4,500. Plateau between the Dri and Mathun rivers. Home of the Idu Mishmi tribe (own language, animist-Buddhist traditions, almost no outside influence).
• Evening: Check in at Circuit House (book ahead through Dibang Valley DC office). Caretaker may cook. Otherwise use your supplies.
• The Dibang Wildlife Sanctuary begins just north of town.

Day 29 (Sat) — 📍Anini, Arunachal Pradesh — Exploration

Weather in Anini (November): 10–14°C day, 0–5°C night. Clear mornings, frost possible. Bring thermal layers for night.

• 7:00 AM: Walk to the 📍Dri River, Arunachal Pradesh — glacier-fed, milky blue, roaring. Traditional cane bridges span it at certain points — some centuries old, still functional.
• 9:00 AM: Visit Idu Mishmi households near the Circuit House if caretaker introduces you. Traditional bamboo home, central hearth, woven mats. Their language (Midu dialect) is spoken by fewer than 5,000 people on Earth.
• Midday: The town’s daily rhythm — government offices open at 10, market stalls with basics, army presence visible.
• 2:00 PM: Walk north toward 📍Dibang Wildlife Sanctuary, Arunachal Pradesh boundary. Red panda, Mishmi takin, musk deer, Asiatic black bear inhabit the sanctuary. Birdlife: Sclater’s monal (one of the rarest pheasants in the world), Blyth’s tragopan. You won’t see large animals on a casual walk, but the habitat is extraordinary.
• Evening: Sit at the edge of the plateau. Mountains rising to 5,000m on every side. No noise. This is why you came.

Day 30 (Sun) — 📍Anini, Arunachal Pradesh → 📍Roing, Arunachal Pradesh → 📍Dibrugarh, Assam

Distance: ~393 km total | Riding: 10–14 hours

• 5:00 AM: Start before dawn. Same road, now familiar.
• 9:30–11:00 AM: Hunli. Tea. Fill if pump has fuel.
• 2:00–4:00 PM: Reach Roing. Fill fuel + food. Relief of civilization.
• 4:00 PM: Decision: stay Roing (closer, safe) or push to Dibrugarh (better facilities, more options).
• If pushing: ~3 more hours across Bogibeel Bridge to Dibrugarh.
• Evening: Hot shower. Real food. Charge everything.

Day 31 (Mon) — 📍Dibrugarh, Assam → 📍Guwahati, Assam

Distance: ~490 km | Road: NH37 / NH27 | Riding: 8–9 hours

• 6:00 AM: Depart Dibrugarh early. The Brahmaputra plains stretch ahead — wide, flat, and fast. This is recovery riding after the hardest days of the trip.
• 7:30 AM: 📍Jorhat, Assam (~55 km) — tea stop. The tea gardens line the road.
• 10:00 AM: 📍Kaziranga, Assam area (~150 km) — you already did the safaris on Day 21. Ride through without stopping, or pull over briefly at the highway boundary for a last look.
• 1:00 PM: 📍Nagaon, Assam (~350 km) — fill fuel. Lunch at a dhaba. Rice, dal, fried river fish.
• 5:30 PM: Arrive 📍Guwahati, Assam. Check in near Paltan Bazaar. Hot shower. The city feels enormous after Anini.
• Evening: Last Assam meal — pork with bamboo shoot, khar fish curry, or duck in mustard. Fancy Bazar area has everything.

Day 32 (Tue) — 📍Guwahati, Assam → 📍Siliguri, West Bengal

Distance: ~430 km | Road: NH27 | Riding: 7–8 hours

• 6:00 AM: Depart Guwahati on NH27. Morning light over the Brahmaputra ghats for the last time.
• 9:00 AM: 📍Bongaigaon, Assam (~200 km) — fill fuel. Tea break.
• 11:30 AM: Dhubri / Golakganj area — cross into West Bengal. Landscape shifts: from Assam’s wetlands to North Bengal’s tea gardens and Dooars forest.
• 1:30 PM: 📍Cooch Behar, West Bengal (~380 km) — lunch + fuel top-up. If time permits, 30-min detour to the 📍Cooch Behar Palace, West Bengal — an unexpected Italianate palace in the middle of North Bengal.
• 4:30 PM: Arrive 📍Siliguri, West Bengal. Check in at Hill Cart Road area (same as Day 1 outbound).
• Evening: Final night outside Kolkata. Siliguri’s Hill Cart Road for momos and dinner.

Day 33 (Wed) — 📍Siliguri, West Bengal → 📍Kolkata, West Bengal

Distance: ~570 km | Road: NH12 | Riding: 9–10 hours | Same road as Day 1, ridden in reverse

• 5:30 AM: Depart Siliguri before dawn. The plains of West Bengal open up immediately as you leave the hills behind. Air gets warmer, flatter, denser.
• 8:30 AM: 📍Raiganj / Dalkhola, West Bengal (~220 km) — fill fuel. Breakfast at a highway dhaba — luchi with aloo, or paratha and chai.
• 12:00 PM: 📍Bardhaman, West Bengal (~470 km from Siliguri) — lunch stop. Fill fuel.
• 3:30–4:00 PM: Enter Kolkata outskirts via Dankuni / Kona Expressway. Traffic builds from here.
• 5:00 PM: Home. ~5,500 km. 30 days. Four states. One Scram 440.

Fuel Summary Table

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ATMs

Packing List

Places Quick Map Reference

Status legend: ✅ Covered in this plan · ⚡ Optional / conditional · ➕ Not in this plan (bonus reference)